When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 CE, it buried the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Objects under the volcanic material were excavated and found to be very well preserved. One of the known recovery sites was the House of the Surgeon in Pompeii, named because of the collection of items that were discovered here. According to one source, “The collection is one of the best surviving examples of the tools at a surgeon’s disposal in the first century CE. Since there was relatively little innovation in surgery and surgical tools from the time of Hippocrates (5th century BCE) and Galen (2nd century CE), this collection is typical of surgical practice for nearly a millennium and illuminates the practice of medicine in ancient Rome.”
Over the course of human history, one small tool has withstood the test of time: the sewing needle. This seemingly simple object has been fundamental not only in everyday life but also in the broader scope of technological advancements and social structures. The journey of the sewing needle, from bone and wood to metals like bronze and iron, offers an interesting look on the occupational uses of the needle.
Different Types of Needles
Many bone and metal needles have been recovered on Roman sites, many of these needles were likely used for cloth production and maintenance, although arguably not all. Based on the size of the needles, inferences can be made about the use of it. For example, large iron needles ranging from approximately 110 to 200mm in length could have been used as packing needles. A large metal needle, around 150 mm, could have been used for medical practice like surgeries. A cruder bone needle of the same size may have been used for netting or weaving. The smaller needles, ranging from 50 to 135 mm- were likely to have been used for medical activities or hair arranging (Allison 2015).
Roman Women Occupations
One of the Roman freedwoman occupations involved the needle, “The occupations attested for freedwomen are varied. Most have occupations traditionally held by Roman women, such as needle-working, (and) clothing production” (Holman 2015). With the discovery of a bronze needle in the turrets of Hadrian’s Wall, this would mean that soldiers were likely responsible for mending and taking care of their clothing. This is evidence that the needle was not only used by the freedwomen.
The Roman Contribution
The Roman Empire, known for its innovations, made its mark on the evolution of the needle. Roman needles, often crafted from bronze, were not just tools for domestic sewing but also played a role in medical practices. These needles were typically small, durable, and capable of detailed work, ideal for surgical stitches and the intricate sewing required in Roman attire (Wild, John Peter, 2002).
In addition to their attire, sometimes the Romans would have specific hairstyles that would require an additional shar piece to hold the updo together. The tools were either, “a sharp weapon or a needle used to sew women’s updos into place” (Pandey 2018). These uses of the needles demonstrate the practicality and versatility of Roman innovations.
The Roman Use
A blog posted by the University of Kent describes the Roman’s dressmaking techniques, noting that Romans often wove fabrics directly on looms into the shapes needed for garments, rather than cutting from larger pieces of cloth. This method required significant skill in both spinning and weaving, suggesting that sewing needles were likely used for more detailed garment finishing, such as sewing up side seams after weaving.
Ancient Romans used sewing needles in medical practice primarily for suturing wounds. A pertinent quote reflecting this usage can be drawn from discussions about Roman medical tools: “Roman surgical instruments, particularly needles, were crucial for stitching up wounds, showcasing their advanced approach to medical care.”
In addition to the needles themselves, the Romans used various types of thread, including those made from linen, wool, and silk, to cater to different purposes from everyday clothing to luxurious garments. The stitches they used had to be functional for the variety of fabrics they handled, from sturdy repairs on heavy togas to delicate work on fine tunics. They employed stitches that we still use today, such as running stitches, backstitches, and overcast stitches, demonstrating a high level of skill and understanding of garment construction.
Modern Implications
Today, the humble needle continues to hold its value in industries and crafts. Its evolution mirrors the technological advancements and cultural shifts throughout human history. The modern sewing needle, now predominantly made of steel and manufactured with precision engineering, is a testament to centuries of incremental improvements and innovations. The flawless design of the sewing needle was able to withstand the test of time by maintaining its design.
Conclusion
The sewing needle, a seemingly simple tool, has played a significant role impacting various aspects of society from domestic life to medical practices. From its early forms made of bone and wood to the sophisticated metal needles of the Roman Empire, this tool exemplifies the enduring nature of practical innovations. Roman needles, crafted with precision for both everyday and specialized uses, highlight the versatility and ingenuity of ancient craftsmanship. They serve as a testament to how even the most humble of tools can influence and enhance the daily lives and technological advancements of a civilization. As you view this needle, consider the hands that once used it- what stories might this needle tell if it could speak of its journeys through the hands of Roman artisans and medics?
Bibliography
- “Surgical Instruments from Ancient Rome.” Ancient Roman Surgical Instruments. Accessed March 5, 2024. http://exhibits.hsl.virginia.edu/romansurgical/.
- Pandey, B., Nandini. 2018 “Caput mundi: Female Hair as Symbolic Vehicle Domination in Ovidian Love Elegy”pdf (jhu.edu)
- Allison, M, Penelope. 2015. “American Journal of Archaeology” Characterizing Roman Artifacts to Investigate Gendered Practices in Contexts Without Sexed Bodies. The University of Chicago Press Journals. Characterizing Roman Artifacts to Investigate Gendered Practices in Contexts Without Sexed Bodies | American Journal of Archaeology: Vol 119, No 1 (uchicago.edu)
- Holman, Lindsay. 2015. Roman Freedwomen: Their Occupations and Identity. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill Graduate School. https://doi.org/10.17615/kweh-gw67
- Allbutt, Clifford. “Greco-Roman and Arabic Bronze Instruments and Their Medico-Surgical Use – Greco-Roman and Arabic Bronze Instruments and Their Medico-Surgical Use. by S. Holth, M.D. Pp. 19, Four Plates, and Five Figures in Text. Christiania, 1919. (Written in English.).” The Classical Review 35, no. 5–6 (August 1921): 106–7. https://doi.org/10.1017/s0009840x00014980.
- Wheeler, J. R., and Gisela M. A. Richter. “The Metropolitan Museum of Art: Greek, Roman and Etruscan Bronzes.” The Classical Weekly 9, no. 16 (1916): 124. https://doi.org/10.2307/4387229.
- Jackson, Ralph. “A set of Roman medical instruments from Italy.” Britannia. Accessed March 5,2024 https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/britannia/article/abs/a-set-of-roman-medical-instruments-from-italy/
- Sherlock, David. “Roman Forks.” Archaeological Journal 164, no. 1 (2007): 249-267. https://doi.org/10.1080/00665983.2007.11020711.
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